Almaty. The big city guide

Almaty is the largest city in Kazakhstan and Central Asia, boasting a population of around two million people. Often referred to as the "Southern Capital" of Kazakhstan, it stands as the cultural and economic heart of the country. Almaty is home to a plethora of enterprises, sports and cultural facilities, as well as educational institutions.

Renowned for its numerous parks and squares, Almaty boasts a lush urban landscape with over four million trees gracing its streets and green spaces. Geographically situated in the southeastern part of Kazakhstan, nestled at the foothills of the Zailiyskiy Alatau mountain range, the city sits at an elevation ranging from 600 to 900 meters above sea level. Remarkably, one can reach the mountains from the city center in just 30 minutes.
To the south of the city lies the Ile-Alatau National Park, established to conserve its unique landscapes and promote sustainable tourism in the region.

Photo of the Vernensky period. Source: Wikipedia

Almaty History

During the late Middle Ages, the territory of the present-day city of Almaty was inhabited by Turkic and Mongolian nomads and served as a stop along the Great Silk Road. It was on the ruins of this ancient settlement, known as Almatu, that the Russian military fortification of Zailiyskoye was established in 1854, later renamed Verny. The initial construction comprised barracks and log houses, accommodating 470 soldiers and officers of the Zailiyskaya Squad.
The following year saw an influx of settlers, primarily from Siberia and the Urals, leading to Verny's rapid expansion. The settlement grew to encompass both large and small settlements, a Tatar quarter (now known as the Tatar District), the establishment of Central Park, the construction of the first water mill, and even a brewery.
In 1867, Emperor Alexander II signed a decree elevating Verny to the status of a city and designating it as the center of the Semirechenskaya Region. That same year, Andrey Zenkov arrived in Verny with his family (he was a child at the time), followed by the arrival of the Frenchman Paul Gourde in 1875. Both would later become key architects of the city, playing significant roles in the construction of Verny's infrastructure and iconic buildings.
During the Soviet era, Verny was renamed Alma-Ata and became the capital of the Kazakh SSR, and later, the Kazakh Soviet Socialist Republic. Following Kazakhstan's independence in 1991, Alma-Ata was renamed Almaty, and in 1997, it lost its status as the capital.

The weather in Almaty

The weather in Almaty is characterized by a moderately continental climate, with significant seasonal fluctuations in temperature and weather conditions.
Winters can be cold, with temperatures plummeting to nearly -38 degrees Celsius, yet it can also be surprisingly mild, with snowdrops blooming as witnessed in December 2023. Snowfalls are typical, although the snow doesn't usually linger for long. Winter is a popular time for engaging in active mountain sports.
Spring typically arrives in March, marked by a rapid rise in temperature. By April, temperatures range from +5°C to +20°C, with apple and lilac blossoms adorning the city.
Summer in Almaty is dry and hot, with July recording an absolute maximum temperature of 43 degrees Celsius, while the absolute minimum barely reaches 7 degrees Celsius. Average temperatures in July and August range from +25°C to +30°C. Escaping the heat is possible through mountain hikes or trips to the Kapchagay Reservoir.
Almaty's autumn is a spectacle of vibrant colors, usually gentle and warm. The distinct change of seasons makes Almaty attractive year-round, offering diverse recreational opportunities from skiing to leisurely strolls. 

Getting to Almaty

Getting to Almaty is convenient with its well-connected transportation options:
By Air: Almaty International Airport receives direct flights from major cities worldwide, including Istanbul, Beijing, Moscow, Dubai, Delhi, and Doha. Airlines serving Almaty include Qatar Airways, Air Arabia, Flydubai, Turkish Airlines, Lufthansa, Pegasus Airlines, Wizz Air, Asiana Airlines, Aeroflot, and more.
By Train: Almaty boasts two railway stations, offering connections from virtually any city in Kazakhstan and neighboring countries. Train travel is ideal for those who enjoy scenic journeys.
By Road: Almaty is well-connected to an international network of roads in various directions. There are bus services available from Bishkek, Tashkent, and Urumqi, with buses arriving at the Sayran Bus Station.
Whether you prefer air, rail, or road travel, reaching the southern capital of Kazakhstan is convenient and accessible.

Accommodation in Almaty

Kazakhstan Hotel. Photo by Arman on Unsplash

Everyone can find accommodation to suit their taste and budget in Almaty. There are luxurious five-star hotels of international renown as well as budget-friendly hostels.

5-star hotels: Ritz-Carlton Almaty, DoubleTree by Hilton Almaty, Rixos Almaty, Rahat Palace, Donatello Boutique Hotel, Swissôtel Wellness Resort Alatau Almaty.

Mid-range hotels: Royal Palace Hotel, Grushevy Hospitality Boutique, Hotel Vivaldis, AQ Capsule Hotel, ADD Hotel Almaty, Mildom Premium Hotel, Alma.

Hostels: Dostyk Hostel, Wanderlust Hostel, Almaty Backpackers, My Hostel.

We also recommend considering short-term apartment rentals. In Kazakhstan, the website krisha.kz is popular for listing apartment rentals, though there is a risk of encountering scammers or intermediaries. There are plenty of options available on Airbnb and Booking.com as well. It's advisable to book accommodation in advance, especially during peak seasons.

Transportation in Almaty

Photo by Victor Loh on Unsplash

In Almaty, popular taxi-hailing applications include Yandex Taxi, Uber, and inDrive. Hailing taxis directly from the street by extending your right hand is also common. However, many visitors arriving in Almaty become victims of taxi scammers operating at the airport. They offer rides to destinations within the city at low rates but later demand exorbitant sums, claiming the initial price was quoted per kilometer. Be cautious of this, and it's advisable to order taxis from official taxi stands or use the aforementioned applications.

Onay Bus card

Public transportation offers several payment options:
1.    Onay Cards: These can be purchased at the airport, train stations, or "Karavan" newspaper kiosks. Fare with this card is 100 tenge. You can top up the card through the Onay mobile app, banking apps, mobile phones, or Qiwi terminals. To use the card, simply tap it on the terminal inside the bus, and the fare will be deducted automatically. It's also possible to have a virtual Onay card and pay by scanning the QR code.
2.    SMS messages: Send the code displayed on the bus to a special number, and the fare will be deducted from your phone's balance.
3.    Cash to the driver: In this case, the fare is 200 tenge. Make sure to take a ticket as ticket inspections by conductors are possible.
 

One of the Almaty metro stations. Photo by Frankie Lu on Unsplash

Almaty also has a metro system consisting of 11 stations, connecting the city center with residential areas. Payment in the metro is made through special tokens purchasable at the entrance ticket offices. Onay cards are also valid, allowing entry through separate turnstiles.

In recent years, an electric scooter rental system has been developing, much to the dismay of local residents. Scooters from companies like Yandex Go, Jet, Whoosh, Ozim, and Eleven are available for rent. The speed limit on sidewalks and pedestrian zones is 6 km/h, while on bike lanes, the maximum speed is 25 km/h. In their absence, riding on the right side of the road is permitted, following the rules: wearing a fastened helmet and ensuring the presence of reflective elements when traveling in dark conditions. Scooters cannot carry cargo or passengers. Rental costs vary from 30 tenge per minute to 100 tenge.

Almaty Bike

For bicycle enthusiasts, Almaty offers the Almaty Bike automated bicycle rental system. To rent a bicycle, register on the Almaty Bike mobile app and top up your balance, or purchase a card at Abaya Avenue, 44/1 (Olympic Ice Arena). The cost for three months is 6000 tenge. Trips up to 30 minutes are included in the cost, with an additional fee for trips exceeding 30 minutes. You can change bicycles every half an hour to avoid additional charges.

Sights of Almaty

Here are some of the key attractions we recommend visiting:
1.    Central State Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan: One of the country's largest museums, where you can learn about the rich history and culture of Kazakhstan.
2.    Central Mosque of Almaty: One of the largest mosques in Kazakhstan and a significant religious center for the city's Muslim population.

the Zenkov Cathedral, Photo by Grigoriy Bunkov on Pexels

3.    Ascension Cathedral: A striking example of wooden architecture, one of the oldest buildings in the city.
4.    Memorial of Glory in 28 Panfilov Park: Dedicated to the heroes of the Great Patriotic War.
5.    Central Park of Culture and Recreation: Features attractions for children and adults, picnic areas, walking alleys, and a pond for boating.
6.    State Academic Opera and Ballet Theater: Not only a venue for opera and ballet lovers but also a significant symbol of Kazakhstan's cultural heritage.
7.    Kok-Tobe: A park on top of the mountain with breathtaking views of the city, accessible by cable car from the Palace of the Republic.
8.    Pedestrian streets Zhibek Zholy and Panfilov: Lined with numerous cafes, restaurants, and often featuring street musicians in the evenings.
9.    Medeu: The world's largest high-altitude sports complex for winter sports. Many Almaty residents and visitors come here to climb the 842-step Stairway to Health.
10.    Shymbulak: A famous ski resort offering excellent conditions for winter sports.

Big Almaty Lake, Photo by Polina Skaia on Unsplash

11.    Big Almaty Lake: A picturesque lake located in the mountains, a popular spot for picnics and walks.

Shopping in Almaty

Every traveler will find places for shopping in Almaty to suit their taste, from colorful markets to luxury shopping centers.

Shopping malls

Mega Center Alma-Ata, фото mega.kz

• Mega Center Alma-Ata - one of the largest shopping centers in Almaty, offering a wide selection of stores, entertainment, and restaurants. Here you can find both international and local brands.
• Dostyk Plaza - a modern shopping center with many stores featuring international and local brands, cafes, and a cinema.
• Esentai Mall - one of the most luxurious shopping centers in Almaty, offering a wide range of premium-class boutiques and elite brand stores.
• Aport - known for its wave pool water park, children's play areas, and leisure spots. Recently, a second Aport has opened, featuring an IMAX cinema with the largest screen in Central Asia.

Markets

• Green Bazaar - an ideal place for those who want to experience the atmosphere of a Central Asian bazaar, buy local fruits, vegetables, groceries, and souvenirs.

Green market, фото by Gaukhar Dossova @dossova (Instagram)

• Barakholka - a huge market stretching for several kilometers. It impresses with the variety of goods, from clothing to household appliances and antiques.
• Altyn Orda - primarily visited for purchasing vegetables, fruits, and meat. Prices here are much cheaper than at other markets, especially in the early morning.
• Flea Market - located near the Semirechye shopping complex. Here you can find rare books, items from the Soviet era, various sculptures, and paintings.

Where to Eat in Almaty

Almaty boasts a vast array of cafes and restaurants to suit every budget. The cuisine is incredibly diverse, ranging from traditional Kazakh to exotic international dishes. 

Beshbarmak, фото by Gaukhar Dossova @dossova (Instagram)

Traditional Kazakh Cuisine: Navat, Sydyk, Tyubeteyka, AUYL, Tary Ethno-Café, Qaimaq, QazaQ restaurant, Tandyr Museum Restaurant, Sandik, Baursak City, Bauyrdaq Kazakh Fast Food.

Italian Cuisine: Parmigiano, Del Papa, IL PONTE, Pasta La Vista, Palermo, Fellini.

Georgian Cuisine: Khachapuri Hinkalievich, Dadiani, Daredzhani, Suli da Guli, Vakhtanguri, Nino, Patsatsina, Ezo.

Turkish Cuisine: Cicek Mangal, Marmaris, Mado, Ozyurt, Istanbul Doner, Degirmen.

Korean Cuisine: Korean Street Food, Kim Chi, Korean House, Ramen 77, Masisso, Kim-Gan-San, Nandu.

Chinese Cuisine: Princess, Turandot, Luckee Yu, China Town, Pekin Hogo, Pekin Duck.

Japanese Cuisine: Samurai Sushi, Sumo San, Mango Sushi, Tokio Ramen Izakaya Bar, Tanuki.

Coffee Shops: Traveler's Coffee, Big Apple Coffee Shop, JumpinGoat Coffee, Nedelka, Coffeedelia, Bowler Coffee Roasters.

Cafeterias: Kaganat chain, Basilic chain, Tagam chain, Paradise chain.

Fast Food: Bahandi Burger, Salam Bro, Burger King, KFC, Hardee's, Dodo Pizza.

Nightlife in Almaty

Nightlife enthusiasts, fans of lively bars, and energetic dancers will love Almaty. Here are some popular spots in the city: Tanz Bar, Bla Bla Bar, Chechil Pub, Jest, Barbara, Gogol, TSB.

Useful Tips about Almaty

The streets in the city are divided into upper and lower sections. The side towards the mountains is considered the upper side. Almaty residents easily navigate using these terms, saying "I'm on the upper side of the street" or "I'm walking uphill along Seifullin Street," meaning towards the mountains.

Although public transport is supposed to run until 11:00 PM, most routes are often unavailable after 9:00 PM.
Rush hours in the city are from 8:30 to 10:00 AM and from 5:30 to 8:00 PM. During these times, Almaty experiences heavy traffic jams in almost all directions.

Over the past couple of years, the city has faced issues with street lighting. Street lamps often don't work, even in the city center, and local authorities have been unresponsive to citizens' complaints.

Currency exchange offices close at 8:00 PM, except for those at the airport.

The southern capital suffers from heavy air pollution, with black smog occasionally enveloping the entire city. Unfortunately, this can trigger reactions in allergy sufferers and individuals with respiratory conditions.